Standing position. When you're standing on the board, your front foot should be near the center and your back foot should be 18 inches to 2 feet from the back. Stay centered. When you stand, keep your hips centered over your feet. Shift your weight by applying more weight to one foot or the other. Surf the whitewater. When learning to surf, practice surfing the whitewater, after the wave has already broken. Swimming out. When swimming out with your board, head straight out into the waves. Your surfboard acts like a boat and rides on top of them. Take a lesson. If you're a beginner, take a lesson. It's extremely helpful to have someone who can show you what to do and tell you what you're doing wrong.