If you have to ask this question, you obviously haven't spent a lot of time surfing. Grin. No offense. The reason he says that, which any surfer will tell you, is that time in the water is time for yourself in the best way possible. For many surfers, the ocean is their church. Surfing can be deeply spiritual in a way I cannot quite describe. It changes you. It lifts up your spirit and can make you feel deeply satisfied and happy in ways other sports can't. If you can't buy the spiritual angle, consider that surfing is really great stress relief. You let go of your problems in the water. You have to, because you must be focused on what you are doing. This is why surfing will make him a better father.
You're right-I haven't spent much time surfing. But I have spent plenty of time in and around the ocean, and while I find peace there beyond almost anywhere else. I guess I just wasn't sure how it would make me better off with others in my life.
You make a good point though Stephanie, about the focus surfing requires, and how that makes you let go of your problems. I can see how this would make Anthony Kiedis feel that surfing will make him a better father. Thanks for the insight!
Oh, I totally agree. Whatever a parent does that they are passionate about (better yet if it's a physical and meditative activity as I suspect surfing is) is regenerative and therefore makes you a fuller and happier person. All that goodness rubs off on everyone else.
I completely agree! As I sit here writing this my husband is out searching for the big waves this winter swell has brought us here in Malibu! (Btw, Anthony surfs in the same spots we do) We both are surfers and we have a 9 year old son. Surfing is my husbands Zen, like Stephanie B. said it's his church (mine as well). When there's good waves he's happy, content and way more patient. It's his stress relief, his time to forget his daily responsibilities and connect with nature, himself and a higher source. If my husband doesn't get to surf for more than 3 or 4 days both my son and I find ourselves saying "Daddy you need to get wet! Go surfing PLEASE!" ;o) I know it has made my husband a better parent (and myself). So here's to good surf and if any of you gals r in Malibu come surf with the Buhines! We love having other surfer gals in the aqua with us!