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Surfing in the Rain
Save the Waves Coalition
Life after competitive surfing is a bit greener
Tow In Wipeout Tahiti circa 2000
Surf Stronger Fitness and Performance Camp
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I Like Spending Ten Days in the Same Pair of Jeans
Posted Jan 21 2010 6:37pm
I like spending ten days in the same pair of jeans. Wiping the knife on my thigh and calling it clean. Getting a solid ten hours nightly – plenty of time to dream.
I like big smooth cobblestones covering the beach. Building fire pits and wind blocks and props for my sore feet.
I like Christmas without presents spent around a campfire. Appreciating that what I have now is all I desire.
I like surfing a wave that goes on forever. Leg burn and arms tired and still more un ridden, paddling back to the top of the pack to be called by name into another without looking back.
I like sand dunes with a line of footsteps and hidden pools of shells. Cacti, and desert emptiness, and myths of danger dispelled.
I like a beanie instead of a hairbrush and no need for a shower. My hair smelling of wood smoke and sea salt instead of a flower.
I like the friends that I met that like these things too. Beach fried turkey, baked brownies, and foraged clams with chanterelles stew.
I like the light of a big blue moon. The Ultimate Warrior waiting his turn, and sea shanties told as the party balls burn.
It was a magical setting that you would not believe.
I like partying with pirates on New Years Eve.
For more from this trip and other adventures check out
The Super Camper blog.
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