Maybe it’s the change of the seasons, maybe it’s stress from medical school (I’ve got 17 months left!), but at any rate, my skin was looking pretty lackluster as of late. So when a company sent me the Artistry Time Defiance line ($170.00, Amway.com ), promising to improve skin’s firmness, smoothness, and luminosity with “smart technology” to deliver extra hydration where your skin needs it most, I was intrigued, and decided to give it a go.
Spectacular Ingredient #1: Oats!
Colloidal oatmeal is one of the few skin care ingredients that is regulated by the U.S. FDA. This is because of its high potency: As far as calming and soothing ingredients go, colloidal oatmeal is amongst the best, improving barrier function, moisturizing, cleansing, and even containing soothing antioxidant vitamin E (Cosmetic Dermatology supplement , 2008). Colloidal oatmeal also relieves pain and itching by inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis in a mechanism similar to that of the drug indomethacin (Cosmetic Dermatology supplement , 2008). In the Artistry Time Defiance line , the hydrolyzed oats direct the moisture to the driest locations within the skin. This occurs as positively-charged portions of oat proteins bind to negatively-charged parts of the skin, anchoring the moisturizing ingredients into the skin (Cosmetic Dermatology supplement , 2008). I have sensitive skin, and I will say that the oats made the line soothing and hydrating from the start!
Spectacular Ingredient #2: Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Hydrolyzed rice protein is manufactured from a portion, or hydrosylate, of rice protein. It is one of the most widely misunderstood skin care ingredients, as a quick internet search reveals rice protein can do everything from “reducing wrinkles” to “protecting the skin’s collagen.” In reality, hydrolyzed rice protein has been proven only as a skin and hair conditioning agent in the scientific literature (Journal of the Chinese Food and Oils Association, 2004). Despite the fact that it is derived from food, it has low allergenic potential after processing ( Focus on Protein Research , 2004). In the Artistry Time Defiance line , the hydrolyzed rice protein hydrates the skin with very low potential of irritation or clogging the pores.
Spectacular Ingredients #3 and #4: Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and vitamin E (Moisturizer only)
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a very stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C. In comparison to L-ascorbic acid, the typical form of vitamin C used in skin care creams, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate has a higher pH and penetrates more deeply into the skin. According to a study published in Dermatologic Surgery , tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate penetrates directly into the epidermis and dermis, acting both as an antioxidant and a direct stimulant of new collagen, unlike other ascorbic acids, which are released into the stratum corneum and protect the skin only as an antioxidant. Further, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is less irritating than L-ascorbic acid, but on the minus side, it is also not as exfoliating.
When used together, Vitamin C and vitamin E are network antioxidants that reinforce the power of one another. When one antioxidant donates its electron to neutralize a free radical, it can “borrow” another electron from the second antioxidant to renew itself. In the case of vitamins C and E, this combination is potent enough to prevent the formation of cancerous compounds in the rat, called carcinogenic nitrosamines .
As far as anti-aging skin care goes, vitamin C and vitamin E enhance the photoprotective effects of sunscreen. Vitamin C has been reported to enhance UVA protection, whereas vitamin E is more effective against UVB . Either way, the combination makes a great daily addition under sunscreen. Vitamin C also prevents and treats age spots and general hyperpigmentation, though far less significantly than 4% hydroquinone. Vitamin E is the dominant natural hydrator within the skin, and application leaves skin soft and supple.
Spectacular Ingredient #5: Soybean Oil
Soy contains small proteins, soybean trypsin inhibitor (STI), Bowman-Birk inhibitor (BBI), amino acids, essential fatty acids, isoflavones, lecithins, mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids, saponins, phytosterols, phytic acid, minerals and vitamins. One potent isoflavone contained in soy is genistein , which has been shown in independent research studies to exhibit both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro , which together increase the firmness, elasticity, and suppleness of skin. Finally, it has been reported in this 2000 study in the journal Dermatology that human trials demonstrated lightening of hyperpigmentation after use of soybean extract for two weeks.
Overall Use and Opinions
The Artistry Time Defiance line is very soothing and hydrating, with low irritant potential. Ironically, despite the fact that it is called “Time Defiance,” I feel that its lack of retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids make it most suitable to women under 40. However, If the cause of your skin problems are related to irritation or a lack of hydration at any age, then you may benefit greatly from Artistry Time Defiance line . It is simply formulated incredibly well, and you notice a dramatic difference in your skin’s smoothness and suppleness within a few uses.
My only qualms? One, it’s highly fragranced, and two, it does not contain a very high SPF (just 15). Despite this, I started using the entire Artistry Time Defiance line two weeks ago, and I absolutely love it! If you are tired of dry, irritated, or lackluster skin, the Artistry Time Defiance line is worth every penny, and I’m not one to say that! Product Rating: 10/10 (High or optimized concentration of proven effective ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value: 3/3. Sunscreen: 1/1).