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Product Review: Patricia Wexler 3 in 1 Intensive Day Cream SPF 30

Posted Sep 22 2008 10:10am

The newest from Bath and Body Works’ skin care phenom is the Dr. Patricia Wexler 3-in-1 Day Cream SPF 30 ($42.50, BathAndBodyWorks.com ).  The cream features three different ingredients to strengthen the skin (Niacyl), inhibit the activity of harmful matrix metalloproteinases that degrade collagen (MMP’s), and BVOSC, a new form of vitamin C that acts as an antioxidant.  As an added bonus, the cream features a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 that makes it great as a stand-alone morning cream.

The research behind MMPi’s has been validated, and Dr. Wexler’s line is especially great in that it features MMPi technology to inhibit MMP’s and ultimately preserve collagen.  According to Dr. Wexler, there are several substances that act as MMP inhibitors (MMPis): epigallocatechin-3-gallate (a derivative of green tea), retinoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid), beta-carotene, DHEA (though this is controversial), polysaccharides, vitamin E, and vitamin C, and flavonoids. Research has shown all of these inhibit MMPs to some degree, but  select products in Wexler’s line has been shown to inhibit MMP activity to a higher degree: in skin cells by more than 80%.  That makes me, for one, a fan of Wexler’s MMPi technology.

Unfortunately, the research behind Niacyl and BVOSC is even less substantiated.  While Niacyl is a derivative of niacin (vitamin B3), which has been shown to improve skin tone, hydration, and firmness with continued use over time as niacinamide, whether or not these same effects are demonstrated with the branded Niacyl remains to be seen.  Furthermore, BVOSC is a form of vitamin C exclusive again to Dr. Wexler’s products.  And while topically-applied vitamin C reduces the appearance of sunspots, preserves collagen, and increases the protection of sunscreen in some forms, it again remains to be seen whether or not BVOSC is as effective as vitamin C as ascorbic acid or ascorbyl palmitate.

As a result, I likeDr. Patricia Wexler 3-in-1 Day Cream SPF 30 for its inclusion of MMPis and sunscreen, but can’t say that I love the Niacyl or BVOSC, because there isn’t enough research substantiating it.  At any rate, it’s a solid product that should preserve collagen and hence skin firmness with continued use over time.  I give it a solid 8/10. (High concentration of effective ingredients: 3/3.  Research-backed ingredients: 2/3.  Value for the money: 2/3.  Sunscreen: 0/1).

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