AVON Genics Treatment Cream features patented YouthGen™ Technology, promising to
“stimulate your Youth Gene’s activity, which slows down with age.” (source: AVON official website ). I’m honestly not too keen on the terminology AVON chose to use (more on that below), but I will say that this is a solid anti-aging cream preferable for nighttime use on normal skin types. Glycolic acid smooths and refines skin after just a few uses, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles somewhat when used nightly for 6-12 weeks, while peptides firm slightly after 3-4 months. For more, read on:
What You Need to Understand About Skin Care + Your Genes
When a skin care product claims to stimulate genes, you must understand that just about any skin care product that accelerates skin cell turnover or enhances collagen is inadvertently stimulating genes. If you rub a bare-bones $2 exfoliant on your face, the outer epithelial cells will be sloughed off, stimulating the cells underneath to come to the surface. In the process, genes are turned on, causing them to produce proteins for the new cells.
What annoys me here is that AVON’s website reads this product stimulates the “Youth Gene.” What in the world are they calling the “Youth Gene”?! There are thousands of genes that could be activated to make someone look younger. Genes for collagen, anti-inflammatory proteins/cytokines, antioxidants, sirtuins, and more, plus regulation of all of these systems! What’s more, nearly every anti-aging skin care ingredient on the market today, from retinoids to glycolic acid to niacinamide, will stimulate gene activity in some way. AVON needs to realize consumers of the 21st century have biological sciences degrees – and easy access to bloggers with them – and specify what gene they are talking about!
Although glycolic acid peels at dermatologists’ offices range from 20 percent to 70 percent ( pH as low as 3.0 ), the concentration of glycolic acid in AVON Genics Treatment Cream is sufficient for positive effects. Just be sure to use it with sunscreen, as glycolic acid makes the skin more sensitive to the sun!
Saccharomyces Ferment = ‘Eh…
As I discussed in a September 27 post, Does yeast in skin care products really make a difference? , there’s limited research to suggest yeast (Saccharomyces ferment) does anything in skin care products. It is an antioxidant and may stimulate wound healing , but I cannot find independent peer-reviewed research to demonstrate it makes people look younger.
So why do companies include yeast in skin care products? The idea is that yeast contains a sequence of DNA that is necessary for double-strand DNA break repair, a major finding that was published in the highly acclaimed journal Nature in 2000. However, not only is it unlikely the yeast DNA sequence gets into your skin cells, it also wouldn’t be doing anything new if it got there. Yeast repair genes are similar to the ERCC1 human repair genes, according to the Annual Review of Genetics , and having extra genes isn’t likely to do you any favors, since they are highly regulated. Better to save the yeast for the bread baking…
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide-7 (Palmitoyl-GQPR or palmitoyl-glycyl-L-glutaminyl-L-prolyl-L-arginine) is also known as Rigin. Palmitoyl oligopeptide-7 is a synthetic peptide that is a fragment of immunoglobulin G combined with palmitic acid. This makes palmitoyl oligopeptide-7 more lipophillic and hence geared toward affecting the skin ( Neova Research , 2010).
Together with palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide-7 comprises Matrixyl-3000®, which was reported at the 2002 World Congress of Dermatology to decrease wrinkle depth by 68% and wrinkle density by 47% when applied twice daily in fair concentration over the course of six months.
Palmitoyl oligopeptide-10, on the other hand, was originally developed for use in anti-acne and anti-dandruff formulations, as it has anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties (Current Opinion in Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 2007). In the concentration it is found in AVON Genics Treatment Cream , I doubt it acts as an anti-acne medication. Rather, I imagine it is simply mildly anti-inflammatory.
All of the fluffy hype aside, AVON Genics Treatment Cream provides a great source of skin-refining glycolic acid and lesser but still slightly-firming amount of palmitoyl oligopeptide-7. I’m a fan of AVON Genics Treatment Cream , but I must advise my readers not to be lead astray by any cream that claims to activate genes. I like this because of the science behind the ingredients, not the pseudoscience alluded to in clever marketing. Product Rating: 8/10 (High+Optimized concentration of proven-effective ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 2/3. Value for the cost: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).