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Conditions Report -- July 15, 2009

Posted Jul 15 2009 8:06pm

--Forecast for theWest Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for theEast Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcamfor Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

Kevin Hogan scouting the route high on the Fin. Photo by Doug Seitz

--AAI Guide Kevin Hogan and friend of the Institute Doug Seitz recently completed the classic Backbone Ridge of Dragontail in the Enchantments. These guys were moving and completed the route car to car in a shade over 14 hours...very impressive! To read the full trip report clickhere.

--Forecast forMount Rainier.

--Forest Service Road Report forMount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--The road to Artist's Point above the Mt. Baker Ski Area is now open. Besides providing access to some of the most amazing alpine scenery that you can drive to in the lower 48 it also provides access to the Lake Anne/Fisher Chimneys on Mt. Shuksan as well as the Ptarmigan Ridge and the Park and Mazama Glaciers on Mt. Baker. Clickherefor pictures of the road work.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adamsconditions and recreation report.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be foundhere.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be foundhere.

--The Tieton River climbing areas have been closed for the season due to nesting raptors. To read more about this closure,click here.

--The current ban on the the Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth due to peregrine falcon nesting has been lifted early. The wall will re-open on July 15th. For more information and other conditions in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest clickhere.

--We have had guides recently return from the South side of Mt. Baker. They reported that the conditions were good. Most of the crevasses are now open and easy to avoid. They are either so big that you can't miss them or small enough that you can't fall in. We also received a report that above and to the right of Survey Rock there was a major glacial release, leaving bus sized blocks of ice near the trail.

--We have recently received a couple updates regarding current Squamish conditions. Clickhereto read more.


--After a recent trip up the Mountaineer's Route on Mt. Whitney our guide Ian McEleney reported the following conditions as of July 11th.

"Most people will want an ice axe, but could probably get away without crampons and boots if they're careful. The trail in is snow free. In the gully there is a short section of snow (maybe about 200 feet) that was pretty soft and might be doable without boots. From the notch to the summit via the couloir there is still some snow but this can be navigated around fairly easily. The Northwest Traverse finish is still snowy but is melting quickly."

--Forinformation regarding wall closures due to falcon nesting in Yosemite National Park,click here.

Shirley Chalupa jugging up a pitch on Lurking Fear. Photo by Radek Chalupa

--Radek and Shirley Chalupa recently completed Lurking Fear on El Capitan. Radek wrote an in-depth report of the climb and took some great photos. To read more about this great climb clickhere.

Video of the Palisades by Leor Pantilat

The Minarets from Lake Ediza. Photo by Leor Pantilat

--Leor Pantilat was busy in the Sierras recently. He climbed both Clyde Minaret and Mt. Sill. Along the way he snapped some great photos and videos of the beautiful Sierra landscape. To read about his climb of Clyde Minaret clickhere, for Mt. Sill clickhere.

--For an update on road conditions in the Eastern Sierra region. Follow thislinkto read more.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra,click here.


--Numerous lightning strikes on the evening of July 10 resulted in two new fires in Denali National Park and Preserve. These two fires were spotted within 1000 years of each other at the base of the Ruth Glacier. Both fires have been safely contained and there are no structures immediately threatened at this time. For more information about the fires in Denali National Park clickhere.

--For daily dispatches from expeditions currently climbingDenali,click here.

--Forecast forDenali.

--Webcamfor Denali National Park.

--The snow is melting very fast in the Alaska Range this year. This is in part due to the ash on the glaciers from the Redoubt volcano. All of the major landing strips are melting out. Strips on the Kahiltna, the Ruth and on the Pika are all in poor shape. Access to the range will be limited in the very near future.


Dan descends the West Ridge of the Schusselkarspitze. Photo by Michael Stanton

--A longtime friend of the Institute, Michael Stanton, recently completed an alpine assault of the Eastern Alps. To read more about his adventurous climbs and see more incredible photos clickhere.

--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be foundhere.

--The climbing season in the Alps has begun and we are accepting applications for our 2009climbs of Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the Eigerand many other peaks in France and Switzerland. Please call our office (360-671-1505) for current availability.


--Forecast and average temperatures forRed Rock Canyon.

--Webcamfor Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.


--Forecast and average temperatures forJoshua Tree National Park.

--Webcamfor Joshua Tree National Park.
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