Health knowledge made personal
Join this community!
› Share page:
Go
Search posts:

Climbing News from Here and Abroad - 10/13/11

Posted Oct 13 2011 9:00am
Northwest:

--The American Alpine Institute Guides Choice Award was recently featured on the Outside Magazine blog .  They wrote
The American Alpine Institute is a 35-year old mountain school best know for its advanced trainings, expeditions, and exceptional instruction, as well as its committment to protecting public lands. Of course, they also know a thing or two about gear, and this summer at the Outdoor Retailer Show , they presented 11 Guides Choice awards.

AAI guides rate the gear year round in the desert, cold weather, rain, snow, high wind, and in high altitude environments. AAI states on its website that “Because of the intensity and constancy of use, the wear and stress that gear receives during these tests corresponds to many years of use by a recreational climbers.”
To read more, click here .

Sierra:

--Armando Castillo knew he should not attempt the last treacherous stretch up Half Dome with storm brewing. While others turned back, Castillo pushed on, making him one of Yosemite National Park's worst nightmares-- the increasing number of wilderness neophytes who mistakenly think the government is obligated to save them. To read more, click here .

--Mammoth Mountain is slated to open on November 10th. With all the snow across the west, we can expect other ski resorts to open early as well. To read more, click here .

--A couple of weeks ago, 60 Minutes did a profile on prolific free-soloist Alex Honnold. Check it out below

Alaska:

--John Frieh, Zac West and Dave Burdick recently completed the first ascent of the Burkett Needle's east arete, a 8,500-foot tower on the Stikine Icecap in southeast Alaska. To read more, click here .



Alaska:

--John Frieh, Zac West and Dave Burdick recently completed the first ascent of the Burkett Needle's east arete, a 8,500-foot tower on the Stikine Icecap in southeast Alaska. To read more, click here .

Desert Southwest:


A Climber Places a Bolt on Birdhunter Buttress in Red Rock Canyon
Photo by Jason Martin

--AAI guide Scott Massey was recently quoted in an article on fixed anchors in the wilderness in Red Rock Canyon.  Recently there was a meeting about renewed interest in legal bolting in Red Rock's wilderness climbing venues. To read more, click here .

Notes from All Over:

--An amazing and terrifying video has been making its way across the internet. On Friday, September 23rd, a couple of lucky folks videotaped a major cliff failure event on the North Coast of Cornwall. Nobody was hurt in this major rockfall.  To view the video, click below



--Boulder hosted the world's best sport climbers over the weekend in the first World Cup Lead Climbing competition on American soil in more than 20 years. Austria and Japan joined the U.S. in celebrating its hosting, with two athletes from each country reaching the podium. The International Federation of Sport Climbing event drew 65 elite climbers from 14 countries. To read more, click here .

--Ed Viesters has a new book out on Annapurna.  To read more, click here .

-- Here's a great accident analysis from an incident wherein a climber misused an autoblocking device.

--UK climbers Tom Ripley and Hamish Dunn completed a new route on the  south face of Chichicapac (18,418') in the Cordillera Carabaya massif in southern Peru. To read more, click here .

--Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk succeeded in climbing the Shark's Fin route on the Northwest Face of Meru (20,700'). The trio completed the climb in India's Gangotri Mountains early this month after spending twelve days climbing. To read more, click here and here .


--Well, it's happened again.  Another group of scientists are sure that they have evidence of Bigfoot.  This time in Siberia. To read about it, click here .

Post a comment
Write a comment: