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Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 6/9/11

Posted Jun 09 2011 9:00am

--Forked Flume was an old Squamish 2-pitch 5.8 A2 when it was first climbed in 1967. Recently, Jeremy Frimer unearthed the old route, cleaned it, added three more pitches and regraded it a straight 5.8.  To read more, click here .

--A black bear that police said was a threat to the public was shot and killed Monday morning by Lynnwood officers after it ran through yards in a residential neighborhood. Shannon Sessions with Lynnwood Police said the 250-pound male bear was spotted Sunday night and chased by wildlife officials.  Lynnwood is just twenty minutes north of Seattle and is a very urban area.  To read more, click here .  To see a video of the bear, click below.

--The Obama administration recently extended the rule that blocks most logging and mining on millions of acres of remote sections of national forests.  Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack says he wants to preserve the "roadless rule" while officials wait for the federal courts to resolve legal issues surrounding the decade-old moratorium.  To read more, click here .


--It is possible that today will mark the first day of the first "all disabled" ascent of El Cap in Yosemite Valley.  Amputees Craig DeMartino and Jarem Frye plan to climb Lurking Fear (VI 5.9 A2+) in three days.  To read more, click here .

--Thanks to a mild spring, the snow has melted gradually and flooding has been minimal. That could change, however, if an extended heat wave settles over the Sierras. California flood agencies are on alert as summer approaches with snow in the mountains piled two to three times its normal depth. To read more, click here .

--Scalpers are everywhere.  It appears that someone -- or a group of someones -- are buying campsites online and then reselling them on craigslist at an extreme markup.  To read more, click here .

Desert Southwest:

--The Las Vegas Review Journal has posted a series of photos of local archeologists and their efforts to remove graffiti from Red Rock native rock art.  To see the photos, click here .

--Search-and-rescue operations at Joshua Tree National Park just got a little bit easier thanks to the donation of a utility vehicle by the non-profit Friends of Joshua Tree to Joshua Tree National Park. The vehicle, a low mileage 2003 Ford F350 pickup truck, comes complete with locking storage compartments for ropes, climbing hardware, and other rescue equipment.  To read more, click here .


--AAI Denali Team 4 summitted on Monday.  Denali Team 5 is currently at 14,000 feet and staging for a move up to 17,000 feet in the next few days.  The Upper West Rib expedition is also at 14,000 feet and will now break away from the West Buttress route to ascend the upper rib.  Denali Team 6 is now at Camp 2 at 11,000 feet.  To read more, click here .

--Former AAI Guide Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman recently completed the first ascent of an obscure peak in the Northwest Fork of the Lacuna Glacier in the Alaska Range.  This ascent was the culmination of multiple trips to the area before they achieved success.  To read more, click here .

The Cassin Ridge
Photo by Bradford Washburn

--British mountaineers Jonathan Griffith and Will Sim recently broke the speed record for the Cassin Ridge on Denali .  The pair climbed the line in an incredible 14 hours and 40 minutes. To read more, click here ,

--For a Serbian and two Japanese climbers, each climbing on his own and each debilitated by altitude sickness while high atop Mount McKinley, help came Monday night from a mountaineering ranger and a team of volunteers who just happened to cross paths with the three, one right after the other.  To read more, click here .

-- A guide and climber were killed on McKinley May 25th when a rope team of four fell near Denali Pass.  To read more click  here  and here .  The two other climbers were seriously injured.  For a National Park Service photo of the site, click here .

Notes from All Over:

-- A rock climber fell around 2:30 in the afternoon on Sunday in Fayetteville.  The climber was knocked unconscious, then transported to Charleston via helicopter, said Jeff West, chief ranger of the New River Gorge National River.  To read more, click here .

--Rescuers located a man who was injured while skiing with friends between Colorado's Long Lake and Lake Isabelle Saturday afternoon. At 12:05 p.m., Boulder County dispatch received a 911 call from a party that was with an injured skier. To read more, click here .

--The warmer summer weather has finally started to arrive across Wyoming after a long and brutal winter, but back country enthusiasts  are still trying to take advantage of snow in higher elevations. This weekend, Grand Teton National Park experienced yet another skiing accident in which a man fell approximately 2,000 feet and survived to tell his story.  To read more, click here .

--Fumitaka Ichimura, Ryo Masumoto and Takaaki Nagato have done it again.  The Giri-Giri boys have claimed a second ascent on China's Daddomain (20,931').  To read more, click here .

--Colorado's Rifle Mountain Park is currently closed.  The premier sport climbing area is closed due to high water in the adjacent river. Police have been ticketing cars in the lot at the crag.  To read more, click here .

--Visitors passing by Zimmerman Park near Billings, MT on Sunday may have seen an unexpected sight on the rocks. More than fifty climbers arrived at the park Sunday afternoon to participate in the Dirtfest 2011, a rock climbing competition started in 1993 by veteran climber Jim Rott.  To read more, click here .

--So it would suck to ski into a bear... Thanks to the Adventure Journal for finding this gem

--The Banff Mountain Film Festival is now accepting submissions to this year's festival.  To read more, click here .

--Just a quick FYI...June 21st is Hike Naked Day.  So don't be surprised if you see something odd, or maybe many odd things, in the mountains that day...

--A new climbing hostel has opened in Chattanooga.  The name of the place?  The Crash Pad, of course. To read more, click here .
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