My uneasiness was soon cured by the with the familiar smell of the salt air and the warmth of the sun beating down on my shoulders.
Why does it all go away when you're surfing?
My old surfing grounds and my old Channel Islands surf board. At this given moment there is nothing better.
A great friend, A good ride and the sun!
How is it that God created such beauty? Such simplicity?
Water, waves and the sun. How is it that most people don't see this, don't feel it? There's nothing more in tune with Mother Earth. Nothing more simpler. Nothing more human. This is what life is really about.....Nature..
I've enjoyed surfing for some time now..It was always my escape when life sucked. When ever I had doubt or questions, it always seemed to be fixed by the time I was done being " one with Mother Nature." I would borrow boards and occasionally borrow one when someone wasn't looking. (Nicely put for stealing). As a matter of fact, the board that I currently have, was a "borrowed" board.
I was riding in the back of a car. It just so happened that I was with him and we were going to some event or another..I can't quite remember. All I remember is that at a stop light, about a block away from the beach. I busted out of the car and went running for the waves. Fully dressed and running, he followed not so far behind. I hit the beach, saw a board and proceeded to go. I caught a couple of waves and headed back to shore when he was lying there, fully clothed. Sand, water and sun. We both lay in the sand, half in and half out of the water, looking might special, but laughing our asses off....it was a very spontaneous moment that I'm reminded of every time I see that board.
Needless to say, I was ecstatic when "he" decided to learn. He's still kind of a newbie, only having three or so years under his belt.( If that's considered new anymore)
I was now able to share what I cherished the most with one of the very few people that I cherished the most.