Jason Martin's Posts

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 5/23/13 by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing Northwest --Amy Stein, a 37 year old Canadian climber, died descending from the Orbit route on Snow Creek Wall in Leavenworth when she fell of a ledge while avoiding ... Read on »

Climbers are Funny! by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing Mountain Guide Jokes: What do you call a mountain guide without a girlfriend? Homeless. How do you get ten mountain guides into a closet? Tell them ... Read on »

Popular Anchor Acronyms by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing Over the last decade, the use of anchor acronyms has become quite popular. For awhile, it seemed like everybody had a different acronym for the "ideal" anchor. Following are ... Read on »

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!! by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing This weekend's first video features the globe-trotting Dave Graham, as he hops from his projects in Colorado to other climbs around the world. Wherever he went, the lure of ... Read on »

Using Your Rope in the Anchor by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing This first photo was taken in Red Rock Canyon at the start of the "Tunnel Pitch" on Tunnel Vision (III, 5.7). If you're not familiar with this route, it is an abso ... Read on »

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 5/16/13 by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing Northwest: --Glacier Creek Road, the easiest access to the N. side of Mt. Baker and the Coleman-Deming, is temporarily closed to vehicular traffic due to road damage an ... Read on »

The Super Munter by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing In a serious rescue situation, it might be possible that you would have to lower an extreme weight down a rock face. For example, there is the possibility that you might hav ... Read on »

Ascending Systems by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing There are a million ascending systems out there. On this blog we have previously discussed jugging with mechanical ascenders , the prusik hitch and climbing the rope with an ... Read on »

Glacier Climbing Etiquette by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing 1) What is the etiquette for passing a rope team on a glaciated climb? It is acceptable to pass a rope team on a glacier. However, this must be done without hinderi ... Read on »

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 5/9/13 by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing Northwest: --The NPS has published an update regarding the sequester's impact on the Olympic National Park and its operations. --Join the AAC, sponsors and yo ... Read on »

Climbing Events May and June 2013 by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing 5/11 -- Bend, OR -- Smith Rock Spring Thing 5/17 - 5/19 -- New River Rendezvous 5/25 -- Yerevan, Armenia -- http://uptherocks.com/content/view/197/13 ... Read on »

The Double-Fisherman's Knot by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing The double-fisherman's knot is a knot that may be used to join two ropes together. The ropes may be of similar or dissimilar diameters. It is a very secure knot. Indee ... Read on »

Using Your Camera in Extreme Cold or Wet Weather by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing This is an article I wrote a couple of years ago but still get a lot of questions about. I have updated with some recent information. As a guide who always carries a ... Read on »

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!! by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing The first video this week comes from AAI's very own Tad McCrea and Dustin Byrne on the Alaskan classic, "Ham and Eggs" on the Moose's Tooth in the Ruth Gorge. Dustin and Ta ... Read on »

The Ethics of Leaving Fixed Ropes, Caches and Draws by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing The ethics of leaving gear in the mountains or at the crag is complex. Some might consider anything left behind anywhere, akin to abandoning gear. Indeed, some National Park ... Read on »

Climbing and Outdoor News From Here and Abroad - 5/2/2013 by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing -A popular climbing spot in Southeast Arizona is being threatened by a bill that would hand over 2400 acres of public land to a multi-national mining company. This would ... Read on »

In Defense of Soloing by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing It's a common enough site. A young man pulls on his rock shoes and clips on his chalk bag. The next thing you know he's blasting up the wall without a rope or a harness. ... Read on »

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you STOKED!!! by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing You may start watching this first clip, and ask yourself, "wait, is this the right blog..." but give it a second until the climbing kicks in, then you'll get why I added it. ... Read on »

Book Review: True Summit by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing In June of 1950, a small French team made it to the summit of Annapurna under the leadership of Maurice Herzog. The mountain became the first 8,000 meter peak ever to be cli ... Read on »

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 4/25/13 by Jason Martin Posted in: Blog Posts in Rock climbing Northwest: --The Washington State Department of Natural Resources (DNR) has temporarily closed the Lyre River Campground in Clallam County due to safety concerns after ... Read on »

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