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overstuffed "pagoda" shoulders and gold kimono jackets worn over tight silk pants

Posted May 18 2013 6:38am

  The collection, to be displayed in its entirety next month in Peking and Shanghai, ranges from garments with thigh-high slits and see-through torsos to dresses and coats with overstuffed "pagoda" shoulders and gold kimono jackets worn over tight silk pants. The designer, who has spent four years plotting the Cardinization of Cathay, makes abundant use of the country's magnificent silks and cashmeres but yields nothing to Maonotony. "Vroom!" he cries. "It's the shock that will be interesting. Why should I copy Mao collars when what they want is dresses from Paris? The Chinese have lost their suspicion, and dream of giving their clothes a Western image that will set China at the level of other nations."

That level already exists--at some altitudes. Cho Lin, Vice Premier Teng Hsiao-p'ing's wife, changed from one dazzling ensemble to another during her U.S. visit last week. Many Chinese panjandrums wear silken tunics that barely bow to Mao. Sumptuousness, after all, is not exactly new to the people who created such marvels as the Ming Tombs and the Forbidden City. After decades of isolation and unisex, it is not too surprising that the Chinese should again aspire to elegance, or seek it from Paris, where some of their leaders were educated. As for Cardin: "When I was 20, a fortune teller told me that my name would be on all the walls of the cities of the world." Now, the Great Wall?  yanzic0518.

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