When I met my husband almost eight years ago, he came with a long list of Foods I Do Not and Will Never Care For; tomatoes, onions, fish, fennel, mushrooms, and practically all fresh herbs were at the top. I was positively horrified. Stupefied. Traumatized. Luckily, he had his sharp wit and good looks going for him.
Over time, through exposure and perhaps a little female fussing, he’s developed a taste for many of the foods he once disdained. As far as I know, the list has dwindled to a mere four: duck, chicories, silk worms (which happens to be the only item on my Never Again, No Way, Uh-uh list), and licorice. And with these, he refuses to budge (So far. (Men take note and acceptance: women don’t give up.)).
I can cope without duck and licorice, but chicories? Absolutely not. So whenever he’s away on business, I make it my job to consume as much
Treviso, endive, Sugarloaf, and frisée as will comfortably fit in my tummy. Market trips made in preparation for these weeks are quite a hoot. As farmers weigh my big bags of green, they often peer over the scale with a look of mixed curiosity and suspicion. As in,
who consumes this much escarole?!
Though I have standby chicory concoctions that I return to time and time again, I love to play around with combinations so I don’t get bored. Recently, after filling a gallon-sized bag with frisée, I happened by a stall selling jujubes. A jujube, also known as Chinese Date, is a unique fruit that I can best describe as having the consistency and taste of a small, slightly spongy Golden Delicious. It has a crisp, yet yielding texture, subtle fruitiness, and a faint sweetness - the perfect match for bittersweet, feathery frisée, crunchy walnuts, and creamy, pungent blue cheese.
JUJUBES are used in traditional Chinese medicine, often dried, for improving circulation and relieving stress. They contain significant amounts of potassium, iron, calcium, and, of course, fiber. You can find jujubes at farmers’ markets and in Chinese grocery stores (ask for hoong zoe). However, if they are unavailable, the recipe below would be fantastic with a sliced apple or Asian pear instead.
CHICORY greens are cleansing and purifying. They improve digestion, help regulate blood sugar (due to inulin), and contain significant amounts of potassium, vitamin A, and calcium. Look for crisp greens that are vibrant and fresh; avoid any heads that exhibit signs of wilting, browning, or spoilage. Wrap unwashed greens in paper towels and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to four days; wash and dry thoroughly before using.
FRISÉE WITH JUJUBES, WALNUTS & BLUE CHEESE APPROXIMATELY 6 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS
2 cups whole walnuts
1 tablespoon walnut oil
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar *
1 shallot, finely diced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¾ pound frisée, washed and dried
5 medium jujubes, thinly sliced**
½ cup crumbled blue cheese (such as Fourme d’Ambert or Bayley Hazen Blue)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
NOTES
*
Look for vinegar made from Pedro Ximenez sherry
**
Jujubes contain pits; simply cut around the pit like you would the core of an apple and thinly slice each segment. DIRECTIONS
Preheat the oven to 375 F. Spread walnuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 8-10 minutes, or until a deep golden brown. Remove toasted nuts from the oven; fold warm walnuts in a clean towel and rub lightly to remove the bitter skins (this also serves to “chop” them into bite-size pieces). Place walnuts in a glass storage container and toss with a tablespoon of walnut oil or extra-virgin oil and a generous pinch of sea salt. Reserve ½ cup toasted walnuts for the salad; store the rest in an airtight container at room temperature for another use.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the Dijon mustard with the sherry vinegar, diced shallot, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper; allow to sit for at least 5 minutes (the acid will mellow the raw shallot). Pour olive oil into the bowl in a steady stream, whisking constantly to emulsify the vinaigrette. Tear frisée and add to the bowl. Add jujubes, walnuts, crumbled blue cheese, and another small pinch of salt. Toss gently to combine and serve at once.
When I met my husband almost eight years ago, he came with a long list of Foods I Do Not and Will Never Care For; tomatoes, onions, fish, fennel, mushrooms, and practically all fresh herbs were at the top. I was positively horrified. Stupefied. Traumatized. Luckily, he had his sharp wit and good looks going for him.
Over time, through exposure and perhaps a little female fussing, he’s developed a taste for many of the foods he once disdained. As far as I know, the list has dwindled to a mere four: duck, chicories, silk worms (which happens to be the only item on my Never Again, No Way, Uh-uh list), and licorice. And with these, he refuses to budge (So far. (Men take note and acceptance: women don’t give up.)).
I can cope without duck and licorice, but chicories? Absolutely not. So whenever he’s away on business, I make it my job to consume as much Treviso, endive, Sugarloaf, and frisée as will comfortably fit in my tummy. Market trips made in preparation for these weeks are quite a hoot. As farmers weigh my big bags of green, they often peer over the scale with a look of mixed curiosity and suspicion. As in, who consumes this much escarole?!
Though I have standby chicory concoctions that I return to time and time again, I love to play around with combinations so I don’t get bored. Recently, after filling a gallon-sized bag with frisée, I happened by a stall selling jujubes. A jujube, also known as Chinese Date, is a unique fruit that I can best describe as having the consistency and taste of a small, slightly spongy Golden Delicious. It has a crisp, yet yielding texture, subtle fruitiness, and a faint sweetness - the perfect match for bittersweet, feathery frisée, crunchy walnuts, and creamy, pungent blue cheese.
JUJUBES are used in traditional Chinese medicine, often dried, for improving circulation and relieving stress. They contain significant amounts of potassium, iron, calcium, and, of course, fiber. You can find jujubes at farmers’ markets and in Chinese grocery stores (ask for hoong zoe). However, if they are unavailable, the recipe below would be fantastic with a sliced apple or Asian pear instead.
CHICORY greens are cleansing and purifying. They improve digestion, help regulate blood sugar (due to inulin), and contain significant amounts of potassium, vitamin A, and calcium. Look for crisp greens that are vibrant and fresh; avoid any heads that exhibit signs of wilting, browning, or spoilage. Wrap unwashed greens in paper towels and refrigerate in an airtight container for up to four days; wash and dry thoroughly before using.
FRISÉE WITH JUJUBES, WALNUTS & BLUE CHEESE
APPROXIMATELY 6 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS
2 cups whole walnuts
1 tablespoon walnut oil
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar *
1 shallot, finely diced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¾ pound frisée, washed and dried
5 medium jujubes, thinly sliced**
½ cup crumbled blue cheese (such as Fourme d’Ambert or Bayley Hazen Blue)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
NOTES
* Look for vinegar made from Pedro Ximenez sherry
** Jujubes contain pits; simply cut around the pit like you would the core of an apple and thinly slice each segment.
DIRECTIONS
Preheat the oven to 375 F. Spread walnuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 8-10 minutes, or until a deep golden brown. Remove toasted nuts from the oven; fold warm walnuts in a clean towel and rub lightly to remove the bitter skins (this also serves to “chop” them into bite-size pieces). Place walnuts in a glass storage container and toss with a tablespoon of walnut oil or extra-virgin oil and a generous pinch of sea salt. Reserve ½ cup toasted walnuts for the salad; store the rest in an airtight container at room temperature for another use.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the Dijon mustard with the sherry vinegar, diced shallot, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper; allow to sit for at least 5 minutes (the acid will mellow the raw shallot). Pour olive oil into the bowl in a steady stream, whisking constantly to emulsify the vinaigrette. Tear frisée and add to the bowl. Add jujubes, walnuts, crumbled blue cheese, and another small pinch of salt. Toss gently to combine and serve at once.