Forsaking sleep, coffee, and a balanced breakfast, I put on sunscreen and my swim suit, packed my bag, and carried by body-board about 1.2.5 miles or so to the beach (my car is away at the repair shop). There, I paddled about ten minutes out noting the soreness in my body from not having had a long paddle in a couple of weeks. I then proceeded to swim carefully over some reef and then realized that low tide was lasting longer than I expected. I dodged several small waves and got out to where the big ones were breaking. The surf report said 1-3 foot waves but these were about 3-4. Well, it was great. The first one I caught was fast and long and I was able to turn back before I hit the reef. However, I then was knocked off my board by an unexpected wave and the next wave I caught led me over exposed reef where my board was the only thing protecting me from all kinds of cuts and bruises. I hung out in the water a little longer, enjoying the peace and calm that you can only get when you are hundreds of feet from shore. Mornings in Honolulu are wonderful especially when you get to be in the ocean.
Right before I turned back I noticed that after each set of waves, tons of reef would be exposed and even the slightest mistake could cause damage to my body, or worse, to my new board! Hence, it was time to paddle back to shore and rest in the sun. Then during a tiring, thirsty walk home with random men yelling things at me from their trucks, all I could think about was how I should be appreciating living in Honolulu more instead of letting the disappointment, anxiety, stress, and sadness that live in my head continue to weigh me down. These things as you know are easy to say and almost impossible to really achieve.
Right before I turned back I noticed that after each set of waves, tons of reef would be exposed and even the slightest mistake could cause damage to my body, or worse, to my new board! Hence, it was time to paddle back to shore and rest in the sun. Then during a tiring, thirsty walk home with random men yelling things at me from their trucks, all I could think about was how I should be appreciating living in Honolulu more instead of letting the disappointment, anxiety, stress, and sadness that live in my head continue to weigh me down. These things as you know are easy to say and almost impossible to really achieve.