I never thought a vacation could have such a powerful influence on me. All I knew when I hopped on the plane was that it is in China and some people have “Free Tibet” bumper stickers on their car.
I grew up on my trip to Tibet. Actually, that isn’t quite accurate. Growing up implies progress in a set direction. I grew sideways. Lopsided. I hung a bit to the left. Tibet changed my path. I was heading in a direction of perpetual discontent and destruction. Learning about Buddhism and being around Tibetan nuns made me realize that in many ways, I suck. And Im workin’ on it.
I learned more in Tibet than I probably did in grade school. Here are the highlights…
What I mean is that if an area is being occupied by a country, there is not just a military presence. That phrase implies that there are a few soldiers standing about not really doing anything. A more accurate thing to say is that there is an active oppressive force at work. There is evidence of the Chinese oppression all over Tibet. In the last three weeks, I witnessed…
Snipers perched atop buildings watching everyone, dressed in full riot gear
Soldiers marching through the streets, breaking up any crowd of more than 5 people
Signs at public computers stating that “no religious, political, or pornographic material may be accessed”
Numerous checkpoints for proper permits and paperwork along roads
Fake plastic policemen holding real video cameras along the roads
Tibetan nuns brought to tears when the Chinese military is brought up, because they were tortured
The Dalai Lama (the highest Buddhist religious figure) is not allowed into the country
The Tibetans are not allowed to have photos of the Dalai lama
Teachers, monks, and nuns must sign contracts saying they are Communist
Videos cameras watching the monks in monasteries
The Chinese government gives incentives for Chinese people to move into Tibet, like no taxes for 5 years
A gaurd smashed a tourists camera because he took a photo of him
Fake tourist attractions with false historical information created by the Chinese
The Tibetan flag is banned
Some hotels are required to post pictures of the Chinese government
The vast majority of the Chinese do not know the truth about their invasion of Tibet. They learn from a very young age that China freed the Tibetans from the oppressive Dalai Lama and monks. They are taught that the people were enslaved by them and that the monks took advantage of the people. They have no idea that the Tibetans did not want to be “freed” and they loved Dalai Lama. They do not know that the Chinese invaded Tibet in order to strip the land of its resources and utilize its rivers for their waning water supply. The Chinese know the Invasion of Tibet as the Liberation of Tibet, a joke to both Tibetans and foreigners.
I always thought that Buddhism was a religion, like Hinduism, Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. It is actually simply a way of living and being. One can be both Buddhist and Christian or any religion, if they so desire. It seems to me that the fundamental concept of Buddhism is living in a way that best serves others. Buddhists seek to improve themselves not for their own benefit, but for the benefit of all people. Instead of praying and asking a god for favors, Buddhists pray to be aided in their self improvement for the betterment of others. For example, I often prayed for aid in being more positive and more tranquil, so that I can be a better girlfriend, daughter, and friend. I often struggle with depression and anxiety, and it negatively impacts my relationships with others.
Buddhism also does not have a supreme being or God. There are deities, but these are basically just inspirational figures to help one become better. Instead having a list of things that Buddhists must do (like in Catholicism), Buddhists meditate. Meditation helps bring clarity and opens the mind to help one be more conscious in their daily life. More consciousness leads to better thought out decisions, actions, and words.
The amount of undeveloped land is constantly shrinking. Traditional burials with a full sized coffin and tombstone seem almost vulgar now. Who am I to say that my dead body is worthy of taking up space where trees and greenery could live? Tibetans have a beautiful ceremony called a sky burial for the dead. I had the honor of watching a sky burial on a mountain top in Terdrom. Three days post mortem, the body is taken up towards the top of a mountain. First, there is a ritual to separate the soul from the body. Once the ritual is completed, it is time for the body to be recycled back into the earth. The bodies are cut and the skin is removed. While this is happening, hundreds of vultures are flying overhead and congregating around the area. The family and anyone who wishes to watch surround the body in a semi circle about 40 feet away. When the body/bodies are done being prepared, the vultures storm the bodies and proceed to eat the flesh. After 20 minutes or so, nothing is left but the bones. The bones are then taken into a pot and boiled until soft, where they are then mixed with tsampa (ground barley) to make into an edible paste. This paste is also fed to the birds.
It may sound gory and “uncivilized,” but trust me when I tell you it is beautiful. The birds fly away and one knows that the honored person’s flesh will assimilate into the bird. A sky burial is the continuance of the cycle of life where as a traditional burial is an abrupt halt.
Though, to be honest, if I was going to have a sky burial for myself, I would prefer a bird other than a vulture…
Traveling in a bus for 22 hours and eating crappy Chinese food really messed with my system. I was tired after doing nothing. I felt mentally fuzzy. And I was pissed as hell because I was so damn constipated. Another woman on the trip, Bronwyn, was in the same bloat boat as me. We couldn’t talk about anything else.
“Lauren, would you like some noodles?” ”No. I am the antithesis of hungry. I am constipated.”
“Lauren, wanna go on a walk?” “Are you kidding? I can hardly waddle. I’m constipated.”
“Lauren, we’re going to do some yoga, wanna join?” “I can’t bend or move when I am full of sh*t.”
Our issues did make for a great dinner conversation though. Bronwyn brought up how bad it is that our mental wellbeing is so tied to our physical bodies. We should be able to be content and even happy even when our bodies are not in prime condition. We should be able to separate the mental from the physical. Most people let themselves feel horrible and guilty if they miss a workout, eat something “bad,” are constipated, or have physical pain. On the flip side, people also abuse their physical bodies to combat their mental state. For example, people over-exercise, binge eat, and take drugs in order to bring about a different mental state.
This applies to both Buddhism, a philosophy, and all religions. With Buddhism, many practitioners and monks meditate in caves for days, months, and years. I met a monk who had recently finished meditating in a cave for 30 years! But if you are living in a cave, being selfless, positive, and open is not very difficult. There are no people to be rude or annoy the crap out of you, no chores to complete, and no stress. The true test of ones philosophy is being your ideal self during your daily, hectic life. Personally, I found it fairly easy to be tranquil and positive while I was in Tibet. I was constantly inspired by the most well-intentioned people. the Tibetans. But when I came home, I wasn’t very calm when some bourgeois asshole in a Bentley cut me off on the interstate, nearly sending me flying over the barrier. Or when the lovely Officer Mendoza wrote me a ticket for not signaling while pulling onto my street. Sigh. Today is a a new day.
Bodybuilders and frat boys alike can chug whey protein shakes in order to get swoll! Vegetarians and vegans can munch on local veggies and feel good about not partaking in the slaughter of animals! Mamas can buy their babies organic baby food and BPA free bottles to protect them from harmful chemicals! Baby boomers can feed on antioxidant rich smoothies, take resveratrol supplements, and eat kale like its their job!
If you tried to do any of these things in Tibet, you would be met with a quizzical look and perhaps a giggle or two. Most Tibetans live on yak butter tea, tsampa, yak yogurt, yak cheese, yak meat, and noodle veggie soup. Tsampa is toasted barley that has been ground into a fine powder. They add yak butter tea (yes, tea with yak butter and salt mixed in) and knead it into a dough. This is eaten for 1 to 3 meals a day, depending on where the person lives and what their economic situation is. In Tibet, not eating meat just doesn’t make sense. Yaks are abundant and local. Importing vegetables to more remote parts of Tibet would be more harmful to animals and the environment then just eating yak products. Unfortunately, many of the imported fruits and veggies come from China, where they are heavily sprayed with pesticides.
Tibetans don’t eat to live longer or stronger, they eat to live.
Tibetan women wear long dresses with sleeves called chupas. They are uber functional. You can store whatever you like in the many folds, like munchies, prayer beads, tissues, or even little gifts that funny American tourists give you. Tibetan men typically wear pants with nice shirts while monks wear special robes.
The one hour that I wore shorts, I was out in the middle of nowhere. We had been trekking all day though the mountains, sweating and heaving at 18,000 feet. When we got to camp, all I wanted was to let my legs feel the loving caress of the wind. So, I put on a pair of shorts and went for a short walk. I came across a two tiny little homes with a family outside. An older woman who appeared to be the grandmother saw me and got this horrified look on her face. She shooed me away with the flick of her wrists and a scowl. I usually take great pains to blend into whatever country I am visiting. I don’t want to offend. But, I had no idea that my knees would cause such a stir in the boonies. You would have thought I was wearing a leather teddy. Or was Lady Gaga.
American’s want it fast. Gimme now! Fast food, fast service, fast results. Western medicine is expensive, but it works… fast. Got an infection? Cipro will clear that up in 2 days. Got the flu? A Z-pac and you’ll be fine. If you got the money, you don’t need the time.
Chinese medicine is more delicate. You have to take your time with it. Give it a little lovin’, a little willin’. The herbs are often taken as a tea. Morning, noon, and night you must crush your herb capsules and drink them down. You need to focus on getting better and will your body to comply. They are more gentle on the body and don’t pose the risks that Western medicines usually do.
But with constipation, go Western.
This is probably because they are almost all Buddhist. My first encounter that made me think that Tibetans are the kindest people on the planet was when I was ridiculously lost and frantically trying to find my hotel. I asked for help and just pointed to a piece of paper with my hotel’s name in Tibetan. If they didn’t know, they would grab my hand and take me to someone that they thought might be able to help me. It took 6 Tibetans, but in the end one woman walked with me for 40 minutes to get me to my destination. My second sweetie pie encounter was when this small, poor family invited me into their one room home and offered me all that they had to eat. And tea, lots of yak butter tea. Until I was ill and burping yak. My third encounter was on our group’s 5 day trek. I sitting in the grass, taking a break, and trying to make myself a crown of flowers. One of our sherpas (mountain men who accompanied us on the trek) walked over to me and took the pathetic crown from my hands. He began to expertly weave flowers into it until it was perfectly round and the flowers pointed straight up. Awwww.