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Navigating the Salon and Getting the Right Cut

Posted Mar 18 2009 3:54pm

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For me, a good hair day is crucial to the way I feel about the day. I may occasionally head out the door with minimal makeup but never without some time spent on taming my locks. Whether you have straight, curly, fine, thick, course or wavy hair, a good washing routine to rid your hair of gunk and build-up, teamed with the right cut, means bad hair days are definitely avoidable.

Th_prom9 First let's talk about getting the right cut. We'll discuss the correct way to wash the hair next week.The first rule to getting a great hair cut is to know that not everyone can wear the same hairstyle. Period. There's no way around it. A cut should fit both the texture of your hair and the shape of your face. Your hair should flatter your face and enhance your best features. I think people will often take into consideration their face shape when going to the salon for a cut, but they don't always think about their hair's texture. And that is unfortunate.

A cut that goes against your hair's texture means a lot more work for you in the morning, and nobody needs that. I sometimes think all those hair books you find at the salon should really be divided up into sections for individual face shape and hair texture. That way, for instance, you could turn to the section on "course hair and an oblong face shape," and know exactly what cuts will work best for you. 

Fine Hair - To add volume and body choose styles with very minimal graduations such as bobs or wedge cuts, and remember that layers are your friend. Keep your hair short or shoulder length.

Course Hair - To tame heavy hair, simply lessen the bulk and weight of the hair with layer cuts. For some people, a good razoring technique will also thin out the hair and give a sleek finish. Keep in mind that I said a "good" razoring technique. Getting too crazy with the razoring will only lead to frizz. 

Straight Hair - Simple, geometric haircuts like bobs fit your hair perfectly. For long cuts, have the layers tapered along your face if you wish to soften it a bit. For volume, add layers from the last three inches to the ends.

Curly Hair - Layered hair cuts reduce bulk and make curls easier to maintain for most people. Avoid razor-cuts at all costs for the above mentioned reason - frizz.

Also keep in mind your face shape. The key here is to balance out the shape of your face and to accentuate your best features.

A Long face - If you have a long or oblong face, create the illusion of more width with long, side-swept bangs or chin-length bobs. You can also go for curls or waves that frame the face. Avoid extremely long lengths or extremely short hair as those styles will take away from the width of your face. Th_short_hairstyles_055_089-1-1-1

An oval face - Almost any hairstyle goes well with an oval face. Layers near your chin or cheekbones will draw attention to them, which is a good thing. Avoid hairstyles though that add volume to the top of the head, which will make your face appear longer.

A Round Face - Take away some of the width of the face by adding length. This can be accomplished with a cut that ends just below your chin. Or try graduated layers. Avoid short, one-length cuts which will add even more width to the face.

A Square Face - Wear textured styles that detract from an angular jaw. Short cuts are good and so are long layers that start right below the jawline. Avoid one-length bobs or bluntly cut bangs which will only emphasize the squareness of the face.

A Heart-Shaped Face - Go for length that frames the jawline or long side-swept bangs. You can also  go with layers at your cheekbones. Your chin may detract from your eyes, so accentuate your eyes. Avoid short, blunt-cut bangs and super choppy layers. 

Kate Sig

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