When locals get "character" overload, they drive to an industrial section of Jefferson Parish to this yum-fest run by kitchen dervish Jacques Leonardi (above). It's all about the cochon (pig), rabbit and duck he brings with gusto to the po'boy plate. "Over-stuffed" is an understatement. The slow-roasted duck po'boy with gravy and jalapeños is love-me tender, sophisticatedly rich. A classic born. 428 Jefferson Highway, crabby-jacks.com
Owner Gautreaux's restaurant
Co-owner, Patois and Ste. Marie restaurantsFried Shrimp Po'boy at Parkway Bakery & TavernThey use a light batter on the shrimp, which are decent-sized and fresh. If they didn't serve po'boys, it would still be a cool place to drink. I sit in the original storefront, and belly up to the bar.