Manish Malhotra started his career in 1990 as a Costume Designer in the Indian Film Industry. Having won the first Filmfare Award for Costume Design in 1995 for the film Rangeela, he has redefined and contemporized costumes in Indian Cinema. Manish has not only designed clothes for most of the leading actors in Bollywood but has also designed clothes for International Stars like Michael Jackson and Naomi Campbell. Manish is also the first Costume Designer to have ventured into mainstream fashion in 1999, with his high profile couture label launch in 2005. Manish has showcased his collections at various International Fashion Weeks in South Africa, Dubai and many more. His label is synonymous with opulent, contemporary Indian wear. His intention has been to create glamorous ensembles with Indian traditional colors, textures, embroideries, and craftsmanship.
Kicking off an exciting day three at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer Resort was the much heralded Accessory show with Eina Ahluwalia, Malini Agarwalla and Suhani Pittie. Each designer brought to the ramp a very unique and personal collection appealing to a wide variety of women.
Wedding Vows… the name of Eina Ahluwalia collection was actually designed with a strong and important message against domestic violence. This was conveyed in necklaces, bracelets and rings with imposing gold daggers, knives, trishuls, bows and arrows, sickles and even a very grim skull with semi precious stones…hanging from a long necklace. This powerful and urgent bridal jewellery demands that a Woman be loved, respected and protected by her husband and partner.
Malini Agarwalla took us to a Brazilian Carnival with her collection of handbags, shoes and necklaces. The perfect touches of bright festive colors, glitter, sequins, tassels, feathers and stones set the mood. The large gold and silver sequined and brocade bags were decorated with multicoloured feathers, pearls, stones and chains – some with shoulder straps or beaded chains rocked down the ramp. The matching footwear was decorated with feathers and glitter adding to the mood of the collection.
It was a mix of the past with some pulsating urban tunes as Suhani Pittie presented her “Urban Folk” collection. Multi textured and coloured elements, stiff moulded collars, looped multi circular necklaces, wired spheres in abstract forms, horizontal bands for chokers and intricate fan shaped pendants; were some of the eye catchers of the show.
Siddhartha Tytler presented a truly innovative line called “Metalosophy”. Sensuous jersey, French chiffon, embellished georgette, sexy silk spandex, beautiful lengths of lamé and luxurious Duchess satin became beautiful dresses, gowns, tops, jackets, kaftans, minis and shirts. The universally loved black and white splashed with metallic made a collection appropriate for the global cocktail circuit.
With a theme like the “New Tower of Babel” there had to be fashion drama on the catwalk by Aparna and Norden Wangdi. Dresses were draped and flared and wrap styles were cool and comfortable…with a touch of Kimono-esqu shaoes and angular hemlines. The embroidered, or bearded and sequined graphic words and calligraphy made the collection universally appealing.
Babita Malkani scored high on the fashion graph with her “Iktar” collection. She used natural cottons, Habutai silks and specially texturized materials, the collection had the perfect resort attitude that was relaxed, fluid and feminine. The looks were layered and loose and styled impeccably with ribbon and bells on the flat sandals, and arms of tribal bangles wrapped in fabrics, and chains, beads and found objects…as well as an irresistible array of necklaces, chains, and cords around the neck. This pure Indian styling was totally universal.
Opulent and Chaste, Debarun’s collection, was a love story created around the simple cotton kora fabric in natural ecru tones. Adding twinkling gold appliqués to reflect the theme, Debarun added floral motifs which were sprinkled over the elegant, timeless, simple silhouettes. Working strictly around Indian forms, there were kurtas teamed with pleated drawstring pants interspersed with saris as well as some colorful Can-Cans and ‘A’ line lehengas for women.
Keeping the ensembles very feminine and sexy for women, Rajat Tangri added discreet designing touches of men’s wear in basic styles. Working around his signature silhouettes, the slim gowns and dresses were interspersed with jackets in luxurious taffeta, silk and organza. Colors were subdued with corals, pastels and black forming at the centre. For a touch of grandeur Rajat added large doses of jewelled embroidery and exclusive prints.
At Rimi Naik’s show there was asymmetry and interesting structures while appliqué panelling gave a fluid graceful look to the ensembles. Resort dresses, a few saris and draped kurtas set the mood. Ombre shading came together artistically with hand brush paintings in colors that were breezy light and ideal for resort wear.
Anita Dongre Timeless presented a collection titled “Love and Life” in cool ecru colors with tiny discreet hints of rose pink, powder blue and pale yellow. The runway featured white cotton gowns with tonal embroidery, saris with gotta edged borders, backless cholis, corset gowns with kimono sleeves and diaphanous halter panelled creations. Hints of pink appeared for the shaded creations, glittering silver kurtas teamed with loose pajamas or salwars, Angarkhas, lehengas and pretty pink gowns with shimmering bodices, were beautiful visions to behold.
Shantanu and Nikhil -Delhi’s designing duo sprang another surprise with their newest line, a Bridge brand named “S&N Drape”. This “Divonics” collection for Summer/Resort 2011 featured sexy, short dresses moulded to the body giving the fabrics an almost leather like feel. The saris, sensuously draped over corsets minus the petticoats, were dramatic. The runway rocked with the hottest soundtrack of the week, as the front row feet tapped along for the show.